Your shopping cart is empty!
Ever since 1988, SofTap® has had an excellent reputation for safe, natural, and long lasting color. All of our pigments strictly use high quality ingredients, are hypoallergenic, and do not contain any FD&C or D&C dyes. Thousands of satisfied customers proudly wear SofTap® colors without anyone ever knowing they had permanent makeup--and that's the way it should be!
These are just a few of the reasons why the SofTap® colors have become the number one choice for professionals worldwide. We hope you enjoy using the SofTap® colors and join the thousands of other professionals who love our products.
Changing the Darkness/Lightness of Colors
If you wish to lighten any color, you may add a little distilled water or use Lemon-Aid. Lemon-Aid is a correction color that allows lightening of a color without changing the tonal value of it too much. So if your client likes a particular SofTap® color, but feels it is too dark, you can simply thin it down with water or add a little bit of Lemon-Aid. Water will make any color lighter and more transparent, and Lemon-Aid will make color lighter and retains any color's opacity.
Do not add any kind of white to lighten SofTap® colors. White is an opaque color, which does not allow the transparency of other colors and will alter the tonal value of any color. It is better to add distilled water to thin color down.
Colors can be darkened by adding a little Black Orchid, or by adding a similar color with a darker shade.
Whether you use a machine or a hand device to deposit color into the skin, the more times you pass over the same area, the darker the color will become/the closer the color will get to what's in the bottle.
As you know, color selection is the most important part of doing a permanent makeup procedure. The other most important part is to put it in the right place. Everyone sees color differently, some people can see the natural undertones in a client's skin and others simply cannot. We developed our colors to not only help you see undertones easily, but also to help create a natural beautiful appearance for all of your clients. Choosing the correct color is as easy as 1, 2, and 3. There's no mixing, no guesswork, and no worries about how it will end up. Our colors have been uniquely formulated so that the tones immediately show up on the skin after you do your smear test. Both you and your client will be able to immediately see which color will be the right one.
1. Put a little bit of the color you want to see onto a cotton swab or a Microbrush. How much is a little bit? How about the size of this O. That's right! That is all you need.
2. Smear the color right in the treatment area. If you are doing eyebrows, smear the color right into the brow.
3. Take a dry tissue or cotton swab and wipe the area dry, completely dry. Doing this will help take off any excess color and help to give you an idea of how it might look after complete healing has taken place. Don't worry about the shape of the brows at this point. Explain to the client that you are only selecting the color. If you want to make things look pretty, then take a damp q-tip and wipe any excess color that you do not want. It's that easy. Just smear and choose.
It is highly suggested to give a patch test in the area that you will be putting permanent makeup on the client. This is not because of any allergic reaction, but to see how color changes in the skin. The SofTap® colors are transparent, and they will mix with whatever undertones are in the skin. Sometimes the undertones and natural chemistry in a persons skin can slightly ashen or warm the color, so it is always a good idea to do this.
1. Take a small amount of the color you want to test and actually implant it into the treatment area. Brows should be spot tested right into the brow area; Lip color should be tested right into the lip. A lip extension (color placed slightly over the lip vermilion) should be placed exactly where it will be placed in the procedure. Eyeliner tests should be done behind the ear. 2. Take a picture, give the client some RecoverAll, and let them go home. Schedule an appointment for them to come back after one week.3. After one week, compare the color in the bottle to the color in the skin.
If the color appears ashier than the bottle, then this means that the client has very strong blue undertones in the skin. If this occurs, then you know to choose a color from the warm palette. If the color appears warmer than the bottle, the client has strong red undertones and you know that you need a color from the cool palette.
About 10 minutes after implantation of the SofTap® colors, you will notice that colors will appear a little darker. This is because the colors are mixing and reacting with oxygen. This is a natural occurrence and is nothing to worry about. Colors turn darker in the same way that a slice of apple does when it has been left out for a while. It is important to remember that color will heal lighter and more evenly than the color you see during the oxidation process.
When doing eyebrows, if the first brow you did appears darker than the second brow you just finished, just reassure your client that it just hasn't oxidized yet. The colors will heal to the perfect matching shades if you just work the same amount of time and implant at the same depth on each side of the face.
If your customer wants to know what the colors are going to heal to, then you should show her a mirror during the first five minutes of your work. This is exactly what the color will heal to. How do we know this? If a client has had to come in for a touchup for a missing spot, the color that is implanted in that spot is identical to the healed color that is surrounding it. Please remind your clients of the fact that the colors oxidize and turn dark.
I always tell my clients that the colors will oxidize by 30-40% during the next 3-4 days. After this, the color will lighten by 35-45% on approx. the 5th day and match the color that was first implanted.
Cool, Neutral and Warm Palettes
SofTap® brow colors are divided into Cool (silver tubes), Neutral (gold tubes), and Warm (copper tubes). It is very easy to select a color based on the skin type of a client this way. Cool skinned people have more bluish undertones in their skin, neutral skin types tend to be more golden, and warm skinned people have a lot of red undertones. If you are not sure if someone belongs in the warm or cool palette, smear a cool color on one eyebrow and smear a warm color on the other eyebrow and see which one looks the best. The two most useful questions to ask a client when choosing a brow color are:
1. "Do you want more or less red (warm or cool) in your brow color?"
2. " Do you want the color light, medium, or dark in depth?"
The Cool Color Palette:
Colors in the cool palette are designed for people with warm undertones. If you have a client with a very fair complexion and rosy cheeks, you probably want to select a brow color from the cool collection. Colors in the cool palette can appear ash or green looking, but warm skin types will turn them into ashier browns. In addition, clients with warm skin often have upper eyeliner that tends to be cooler than lower eyeliner, so choose a warm, dark color for upper eyeliner to compensate for this.
The Neutral Color Palette:
This palette contains colors with a little more red in them than the cool palette, but less than the warm palette. If your client's skin is fair and golden but not rosy, or darker with less blue undertones, select a color from the neutral palette.
The Warm Color Palette:
Warm colors are best for cool skinned clients. If their skin tans easily, is olive, warmer golden, or black, then the warm collection is where you want to select your brow color.
The Fitzpatrick Scale:
The Fitzpatrick scale is a useful guide for choosing color. Dermatologists use these skin types as a guide for how clients' skin responds to UV light. This scale is important for the permanent makeup technician because certain skin types can hyper-pigment color and turn it darker.
Melanin is the ink that pigments the skin. When injury occurs, such as sun damage, acne, or permanent makeup, melanin turns areas darker on certain skin types. This is why you get sunspots and freckles on your skin after prolonged exposure to the sun. When implanting permanent cosmetics, you are injuring the skin, therefore, you will have not only the color you put into the skin, but also the color of the extra melanin added to it. The color of melanin is a very dark, brownish black. You can predict the final result of your implanted color by adding about 20-30 % black to the color that you are using on skin types with a lot of melanin in them.
Skin types 4, 5, and 6 on the Fitzpatrick scale tend to have a lot of melanin in them and will tend to turn colors darker. Black, Hispanic, and Asian skin types with 4, 5, and 6 Fitzpatrick skin types tend to hyper-pigment a lot. This must be explained to the client at the consultation.
When choosing a color for these skin types, you must select 2 to 3 shades lighter than the client desires in order to achieve a result close to the desired color.
1.Let's say that an African American woman wants black eyeliner. You should select Mahogany, which looks like a dark brown. It is about 3 shades lighter then Black Orchid. The final result will be black because Mahogany will mix with about 20-30% of melanin in the skin and look black.
2.If an African American woman wants warm brown eyebrows, then Copper or Cocoa color should be chosen. These colors will turn 2-3 shades darker and give a very natural appearance. Sometimes these colors match the existing skin and will not appear until about 10 minutes after implantation due to oxidation.
3.Keeping this in mind, lets talk about the lips. Let's use an example of a Hispanic woman who wants more of her same color tones in her lips. If she is prone to hyper-pigmentation (skin types 4, 5, or 6), you must keep in mind that whatever color you put in is going to mix with 20-30% melanin, and therefore the end result of the color may be an undesirable brownish red. For this reason it is vital to do a patch test on the lips. Even though we advocate doing a patch test on all of the areas, we live in a fast society and clients want procedures on the spot. Lips are the most important area to perform a patch test in, because there are too many color changes that can take place in the lips that do not happen in the other areas. In addition, it is very hard to predict true results if the client is prone to hyper-pigmentation. Use a patch test to choose your color, and see the lip section for tips on colors for ethnic skin types.
4.A good way to know if someone is prone to hyper-pigmentation is to look at their skin without any makeup on and see if the skin looks blotchy or if it has dark spots on it. For this reason, I highly recommend to stay away from using black on these skin types. The reason for this is that these skin types generally have very strong blue undertones, which tend to ashen any color. Black will tend to fade to a bluish gray and may give off that tattooed appearance. Think "warmer" colors in order to counteract the blue undertones for those particular skin types.
Here are some tips for selecting color using Fitzpatrick skin types:
For Asian, Black, and Hispanic with skin types 4, 5, & 6 use the following colors as your guide:
•For a black look, use Mahogany.
•For a dark brown look, then use German Chocolate, Cafe` Ole, or Royal Fudge.
•For a medium brown look, you may want to use either Chocolate Truffle, Cocoa, or Copper.
•For a light brown look; use Bordeaux, Milk Chocolate, or Caramel.
For Brunettes of Dark, Medium, and Light Brown hair with skin types 1,2, or 3:
•For a black color use Charcoal or Mahogany
•For a medium to dark brown color, use Earth or Expresso or German Chocolate.
•For a medium brown color, use Cafe Vienna or Cappuccino
•For a lighter brown color Fawn, Hazelnut, or Bashful Blonde.
For Blondes, Gray, or White hair with skin types 1, 2, or 3:
•The most popular colors for ash blondes are those in the Cool Collection, Fawn, Hazelnut, or Bashful Blonde.
•The most popular color for warm blondes is Bordeaux, Milk Chocolate, or Caramel.
•For golden blondes, Hazelnut, Cappuccino, Milk Chocolate or Caramel is an excellent choice.
•For an even lighter choice, use Amber for the client that does not want too cool or too warm of a color.
For Strawberry Blondes, Redheads or Auburn hair color with skin types 1, 2, or 3:
•For a dark brown look, then use Chocolate Truffle, Royal Fudge, or Cafe` Ole`.
•For a medium brown look, you may want to use either Cocoa or Copper.
•For a light brown look; use Bordeaux, Cappuccino, Milk Chocolate, or Caramel.
Remember that red counteracts green and vise versa. Therefore a client with an olive complexion will absorb a red color better because the green will absorb the red in the color. Use warmer colors on olive complexioned skin tones and ashier colors on reddish skin tones.
One thing to keep in mind is that one out of three women color their hair. Many women do not keep the same hair color for their entire life. In fact, some women change their hair color frequently. So how do you know what color to choose in cases like this? The best thing to do is to go by the color of the hairs in the eyebrow area. I generally like to choose a color that is a couple of shades lighter than those hairs. It makes for a natural undetectable look. If your client has no hair in the brow area, choose a color that she likes and looks natural with her skin type.
You can create different variations of the same color according to how many times you pass over the same area. The more times you pass over the same area, the darker the color will appear and the closer get to the color in the bottle. Remember that the beginning of the brow should be the lightest part, the arch area is the darkest part of the brow, and the tail or the descending part of the brow should be in the middle.
In order to simulate this effect, pass over the front of the brow the least amount of times, the tail – slightly more times, and the arch the most times. One of the very important things to keep in mind is to keep the brow looking extremely natural looking. Do not put a definite/harsh shape in the front of the brow. This makes an eyebrow look totally artificial.
A full natural eyebrow fades from the skin into short small diameter hairs in the bulb area that are approximately .002" (2 one thousandths of an inch in diameter). The hairs then gradually become larger in diameter toward the arch – approximately .003"-.004" in diameter, and keep their thickness but are less concentrated in the tail area. To simulate this effect, you will need to pass over the same area less times to simulate finer diameter hairs and more times for the larger diameter hairs.
*Roll over color swatches to view color sample and description.
Eyeliner colors are also divided into Cool (silver tubes), Neutral (gold tubes), and Warm (copper tubes). Some skin types require these colors to neutralize any excess warmth or coolness. Upper eyeliner is naturally cooler than lower eyeliner, so choose warmer colors for upper eyeliner to compensate for this. For example, instead of Black Orchid on both top and bottom eyeliner, use German Chocolate on top and Black Orchid on the bottom. The end result will look just like Black Orchid.
You will notice that some of these colors are actually eyebrow colors! This is because these colors happen to give beautiful results as natural looking eyeliner. In addition, eyeliner colors are also divided into Special FX liner and our Blackest Black--Black Orchid. All of these colors make gorgeous eyeliner.
Special Effects Eyeliner:
Fabulous colors for blue, green, or gray eyes. These colors are natural and earthy enough to make only a subtle difference, yet they can really bring out those exotic eyes. Alternatively, they can be used to create a smudgy eyeliner effect just above a black or dark brown liner.
Tips for Choosing Eyeliner Colors:
•Any of the brow colors may also be used for eyeliner.
•If you wish to use a lighter color, then drab it down with Lime-Aid.
•It is a good rule to choose a darker color for the eyeliner than the brows. For example, if a blonde woman has her eyebrows done with Fawn then for that same natural effect, do her eyeliner with Cappuccino or Café Vienna. Add some Lime-Aid to drab down the gold. To darken, add a little Earth.
•For eyeliner, I like to choose a color that complements the outer portion of the iris. Jade Granite is an excellent color for green or hazel eyes. Jade Granite is a greenish/gray color. For green eyes with brown flecks in them, Irish moss is an excellent choice. Irish Moss is a greenish/brown color. For someone who has blue eyes and desires blue eyeliner, Blue Lagoon is an excellent choice. It will fade to a bluish gray. Black Orchid is extremely popular. It is a very black black and is stunning for those who wear black liner.
•You can also use two tones for eyeliner. For example, you may want to do a lash enhancement with a color that matches the eyelashes and a slightly lighter color as a halo or smudgy effect outside that. Here's an example. For a light blonde with blue eyes who wants a totally natural look, you can use Chocolate Truffle in between the lashes and a lighter color like Bordeaux or Café Vienna mixed with Lime-Aid on the outer edge of the lashes with a smudgy effect. Use your imagination and your creativity. These colors are designed for you to have fun.
• Another thing I like to do is to use two different colors for small eyes. Never start the bottom liner at the first lash with small eyes. It makes them look smaller. If the client wants to have upper and lower liner done and she has small eyes, I sometimes like to use a darker color on the top liner and slightly lighter with the same tonal value on the bottom liner. For example, I might use German Chocolate on the top liner and Chocolate Truffle or Cocoa on the bottom liner.
Medium Toned Liner:
Steel blue/gray eyes: Try Earth with a little Pearl, or a 50/50 mix of Blue Lagoon and Tempting Teal.
Blue eyes: Earth, Expresso, or Pecan Pie.
Olive green eyes: Irish Moss, German Chocolate.
Gray/golden brown eyes: Jade Granite, Earth.
Amber or honey brown eyes: Earth, Pecan Pie, Brown Sugar.
Dark brown eyes: Earth, Pecan Pie, Irish Moss.
Dark Toned Liner:
Steel blue/gray eyes: Charcoal, Blue Lagoon, Chocolate Eclair, Mahogany, or Black Orchid.
Blue eyes: Charcoal, Chocolate Eclair, Mahogany, Cafe Ole or Black Orchid.
Olive green eyes: Mahogany, German Chocolate.
Amber or honey brown eyes: German Chocolate, Cafe Ole, Mahogany, or Chocolate Eclair
Dark brown eyes: Mahogany, Black Orchid, German Chocolate, Chocolate Eclair, Cafe Ole
Suggestions for Ethnic Skin Types:
Black skin: Black Orchid
Hispanic skin: Cafe Ole, Mahogany
Asian skin: Cafe Ole, Mahogany, Black Orchid
Our beautiful lip colors are all natural shades of pink, designed to match existing color in a client's lip. Pigments are divided into Brown/Pinks, Orange/Pinks, Red/Pinks, and Mauve/Pinks. Any of these may be blended with another to give an even closer match to natural color.
Our colors are meant for:
•Clients who have pale lips and want to restore a more natural, but brighter color,
•Clients who have an irregular shaped lips and want their same color extended into the skin slightly,
•Clients who want a natural looking lip liner
•Clients who have very thin lips and want fuller looking lips.
The SofTap® lip collection is particularly unique in that you can take three models and put a spot of the same SofTap® color on each model and the undertones in their skin will immediately change the appearance of the same color. When choosing your lip color, do the smear and match test again. Choose the color that closest matches the tonal value of your client's lips. It highly suggested to do a patch test of the desired color that you wish to use right in the lip area. The reason for this is because the lips have very strong blue undertones.
If your client has very strong purplish tones in her lips and doesn't want them as purple, then you should choose a color that is a little bit too orange. The purple in the lips will counteract the orange and will leave the resulting color more on the pinkish side.
For someone who desires a brownish/pinkish tone, consider Havana Girl, Jamaican Rum, Cupid's Kiss, or Pastel Rose for lip extensions. Havana Girl is the brownest of the four. Mango Obsession and Peaches 'N Cream are excellent for warmer complexioned skin. SofTap® colors have excellent staying power so don' t be fooled by how much your colors have faded in the past.
The definition of a lip extension is adding a color to the skin above the vermilion of the lip in order to make the lip look fuller. Make sure that the contour of the skin above the existing lip can effectively take added color. This means that you do not want to expand someone's lip beyond the ridge in the skin. This would not look natural. Some people have a definite ridge above and below the lip and some do not. If you choose a color that matches the client's lip exactly, you do not have to color the entire lip., but will only have to apply color where the client desires to make her lip look fuller. This could be above the upper part of the lip, below the bottom lip, or both. Once the color is implanted, trust that the color is there. Because our colors are so natural, they may not appear right away. If you have deposited the color evenly, do not keep adding color to areas that appear lighter than others. This only means that they have not oxidized yet. Wait a few minutes for the color to appear before deciding to put more color as this may cause some unevenness in the final outcome. For example, if you do the top lip first, then finish the bottom lip before you decide to put more color on the top lip. This will give it ample time to oxidize. This will really help to assure even color.
The Imposter Collection
We have a special lip collection for unique procedures such as lip extensions. The following colors are the most popular for lip extensions or slight lip tinting:
Also, for those die hards of bright colors, we have Valentine, which is a true red, and Tickle Me Pink, which is a pink/red. Have a great time and watch your business expand after using the SofTap® colors.
•Add a hint of Caramel to any lip color if you want to mocha it up.
•Remember that you can layer lip colors one on top of the other. For example a client may first come in and at first request a very natural color. You may choose, for example Sweet 16. Then 3 weeks later, she may say, "Now I want a deeper color." So you then use Cupid's Kiss. Three weeks later she calls and says "No, now I really want it brighter". So then you use Valentine. Then she's happy. The results are stunning. The layering of these colors can be very beautiful.
Patch tests are very important for ethnic lips, as you need to see how different colors will heal up in the lips. Women of color have a lot more melanin in their pigment forming cells, and tend to turn implanted color darker. If you implant a purplish/red color on lips that have strong blue undertones and are prone to hyper-pigmentation, you will end up with a dark purplish blue color. Gross! That's why it is important to do a patch test on the lips.
Patch tests are usually done with Orange-Aid, Salmon, and layers of Orange-Aid or Salmon on the bottom with a lip color on top.
•Use Salmon if you want to make an existing brown lip look pinker. You can also apply another lip color over Salmon in the same appointment to get your desired effect
•Orange-Aid is used to help make an existing brown lip look pinker
•Generally speaking the final color appears after 1 week. However, we have found more color to appear after 2-3 weeks. Some say you should wait 6-8 weeks. If you feel this necessary to wait this long then do so. We usually do a 1-2 week wait in order to see any color changes before doing the procedure. For touchups, however, we usually do a minimum 2-3 week wait.
•On the African American client's lips extreme caution must be used in selecting a color. A medium brown lip liner may appear black. The color red cannot be achieved on their lips. The only shades that may be achieved are various shades of browns. Therefore always choose 3-5 shades lighter for their lips. You can only achieve other lip colors on African American women if they are much lighter complexioned. The darker the skin, the darker their color will end up. Sometimes we can block out the darker tone on African American lips by applying Salmon first and then another pinkish tone over it like Tickle Me Pink or Blushed Petals. Use a patch test to see if this is an option for your client!
•African American brown lip line - Let's say that your African American client desires a lip line. She desires a darker, browner line than the existing color on her lip. This can easily be achieved by matching the same color of the existing lip. Always choose a color from the warm Palette. This color may end up being a warm brow color such as Cocoa. We have used this and the results were beautiful. Caution must be used to not over implant the pigment because the existing melanin in the skin can cause it to appear too dark. Other blends that are beautiful are a base of Havana Girl mixed with the dot of German Chocolate, Peaches N' Cream with a little Bordeaux, Secret Passion with a little Milk Chocolate, or Tickle Me Pink with a little Caramel.
•African American Pink Brown lip line- If the client's skin is medium to dark toned, then it is important to try and block out some of the darkness by using Orange-Aid or Salmon. Both will help to block out the darkness in the lip. Salmon will block out about 30-50% more than Orange-Aid. So, let's talk about which one to use when. Use Orange-Aid if you to make an existing brown lip look pinkish brown. The Orange-Aid will help to block out some of the existing brown in the lip. The existing brown will be a smaller factor in the final result of the pigment. Therefore the final result will still end up with some brown in it. If for example you use a pink color such as Tickle Me Pink over the Orange-Aid, the final result will be a pink/brown. The use of the Orange-Aid will help prevent it from getting too dark.
Beautiful camouflage work is the result of subtlety and soft color that is applied in a spray effect, not in a solid mass. Our flesh tones are designed to match someone's skin tone without having to blend anything. There may be exceptions, because there are many skin tones out there. Anyone who is serious about camouflage work needs to have all of these colors in their palette, because using the right color is critical for a successful treatment.
To choose a camouflage color, smear one of the colors on the skin, then take a dry q-tip and blend it into the skin as though you were trying to rub it off. The right color will be the one that blends in or disappears into the skin.
There are so many different kinds of scar tissue that is it difficult to tell how much color will be absorbed by the scar. A small patch test is a must. Wait 11-14 days before the actual application is done so that you can see how the color will look in the scar. Hyper-pigmented scars (which are darker than the surrounding skin) are much more difficult to camouflage if not impossible to improve. The most successful kind of scars to improve upon are hypo-pigmented scars, which are lighter in color than the surrounding skin.
To work on scars, start by implanting color inside the perimeter of the scar and then work your way in toward the center. Most trainers teach the opposite, but I find that the skin turns pink easily from irritation and when working with skin tones it is very difficult to see where your borders are. You really do not want to implant color on or outside the border of the scar.
Most scars have irregular borders, so if you are using the SofTap® method to implant your color, approach the perimeter of the scar with the needles perpendicular, not parallel to the border. Use the tips of the needles in these areas. I like the 28 prong needles for this or even the 56 prong if a larger scar is being covered. This way you can fill in the nooks and crannies of the border. Remember how important it is to not implant the color solidly. You do not want to end up with a stripe of skin tone. Leave some of the natural skin showing through. It is far better to layer more color at the next visit.
A good way to charge for camouflage work is by the hour. A going rate would be anywhere from $250-$350 per hr.
Color choice for areola re-pigmentation is done using the smear and match test. Start on the outer edge of what will be the new areola and work your way in, similar to how you would work a scar. Implant color lightly around the edges for a natural, feathery appearance, and gradually implant pigment darker as you approach the center.
Camouflage colors are also used when custom blending for areola re-pigmentation. Use this table as your guide for blending. Start with a brown base if the nipple appears browner or a pink base if it appears pinker.
These are primer pigments used to correct old permanent makeup.
"I would like to take this time to personally thank two very special people who have had a very strong impact upon my life. Those two people are my mother and my father, Irene and Spiros. Both of them were award-winning cosmetologists. My mother did a lot of makeup work for the runway models at national shows and my father was a hair color expert. Both were connoisseurs and won many awards for their great contributions to the field of cosmetology. I want to thank them not only for teaching me the tricks of their trade, but also for passing along their gift of wisdom and their zest for perfection. I feel that I was given the best of two worlds. For as you know, the two most important elements in doing permanent makeup is 1) to select the right color, and 2) to put it in the right place. I only hope that I can make them proud by sharing my knowledge with those who seek it just as they shared with me. Thanks Mom and Dad!"
--Alexis Lawson, Founder of SofTap® Permanent Cosmetics