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Technical SupportSofTap® Color GuideWelcome to the revolutionary SofTap® pigment line!
Ever since 1988, SofTap® has had an excellent reputation for safe, natural, and long lasting color. All of our pigments strictly use high quality ingredients, are hypoallergenic, and do not contain any FD&C or D&C dyes. Thousands of satisfied customers proudly wear SofTap® colors without anyone ever knowing they had permanent makeup--and that's the way it should be!
Some of the advantages of SofTap® Colors: •Rich, thick, and creamy consistency implants more color with each tap These are just a few of the reasons why the SofTap® colors have become the number one choice for professionals worldwide. We hope you enjoy using the SofTap® colors and join the thousands of other professionals who love our products. Changing the Darkness/Lightness of Colors If you wish to lighten any color, you may add a little distilled water or use Lemon-Aid. Lemon-Aid is a correction color that allows lightening of a color without changing the tonal value of it too much. So if your client likes a particular SofTap® color, but feels it is too dark, you can simply thin it down with water or add a little bit of Lemon-Aid. Water will make any color lighter and more transparent, and Lemon-Aid will make color lighter and retains any color's opacity.
Do not add any kind of white to lighten SofTap® colors. White is an opaque color, which does not allow the transparency of other colors and will alter the tonal value of any color. It is better to add distilled water to thin color down. Colors can be darkened by adding a little Black Orchid, or by adding a similar color with a darker shade.
Whether you use a machine or a hand device to deposit color into the skin, the more times you pass over the same area, the darker the color will become/the closer the color will get to what's in the bottle. How to Select Your Color 1.Put a little bit of the color you want to see onto a cotton swab or a Microbrush. How much is a little bit? How about the size of this O. That's right! That is all you need.
2.Smear the color right in the treatment area. If you are doing eyebrows, smear the color right into the brow.
3.Take a dry tissue or cotton swab and wipe the area dry, completely dry. Doing this will help take off any excess color and help to give you an idea of how it might look after complete healing has taken place. Don't worry about the shape of the brows at this point. Explain to the client that you are only selecting the color. If you want to make things look pretty, then take a damp q-tip and wipe any excess color that you do not want. It's that easy. Just smear and choose.
Patch Testing It is highly suggested to give a patch test in the area that you will be putting permanent makeup on the client. This is not because of any allergic reaction, but to see how color changes in the skin. The SofTap® colors are transparent, and they will mix with whatever undertones are in the skin. Sometimes the undertones and natural chemistry in a persons skin can slightly ashen or warm the color, so it is always a good idea to do this. How to do a Patch Test: 1.Take a small amount of the color you want to test and actually implant it into the treatment area. Brows should be spot tested right into the brow area; Lip color should be tested right into the lip. A lip extension (color placed slightly over the lip vermilion) should be placed exactly where it will be placed in the procedure. Eyeliner tests should be done behind the ear. If the color appears ashier than the bottle, then this means that the client has very strong blue undertones in the skin. If this occurs, then you know to choose a color from the warm palette. If the color appears warmer than the bottle, the client has strong red undertones and you know that you need a color from the cool palette. About 10 minutes after implantation of the SofTap® colors, you will notice that colors will appear a little darker. This is because the colors are mixing and reacting with oxygen. This is a natural occurrence and is nothing to worry about. Colors turn darker in the same way that a slice of apple does when it has been left out for a while. It is important to remember that color will heal lighter and more evenly than the color you see during the oxidation process.
•When doing eyebrows, if the first brow you did appears darker than the second brow you just finished, just reassure your client that it just hasn't oxidized yet. The colors will heal to the perfect matching shades if you just work the same amount of time and implant at the same depth on each side of the face. Skin Theory Cool, Neutral and Warm Palettes
SofTap® brow colors are divided into Cool (silver tubes), Neutral (gold tubes), and Warm (copper tubes). It is very easy to select a color based on the skin type of a client this way. Cool skinned people have more bluish undertones in their skin, neutral skin types tend to be more golden, and warm skinned people have a lot of red undertones. If you are not sure if someone belongs in the warm or cool palette, smear a cool color on one eyebrow and smear a warm color on the other eyebrow and see which one looks the best. The two most useful questions to ask a client when choosing a brow color are: The Cool Color Palette: The Neutral Color Palette: The Warm Color Palette: The Fitzpatrick Scale: Melanin:
Skin types 4, 5, and 6 on the Fitzpatrick scale tend to have a lot of melanin in them and will tend to turn colors darker. Black, Hispanic, and Asian skin types with 4, 5, and 6 Fitzpatrick skin types tend to hyper-pigment a lot. This must be explained to the client at the consultation. When choosing a color for these skin types, you must select 2 to 3 shades lighter than the client desires in order to achieve a result close to the desired color.
Examples: 1.Let's say that an African American woman wants black eyeliner. You should select Mahogany, which looks like a dark brown. It is about 3 shades lighter then Black Orchid. The final result will be black because Mahogany will mix with about 20-30% of melanin in the skin and look black.
2.If an African American woman wants warm brown eyebrows, then Copper or Cocoa color should be chosen. These colors will turn 2-3 shades darker and give a very natural appearance. Sometimes these colors match the existing skin and will not appear until about 10 minutes after implantation due to oxidation.
3.Keeping this in mind, lets talk about the lips. Let's use an example of a Hispanic woman who wants more of her same color tones in her lips. If she is prone to hyper-pigmentation (skin types 4, 5, or 6), you must keep in mind that whatever color you put in is going to mix with 20-30% melanin, and therefore the end result of the color may be an undesirable brownish red. For this reason it is vital to do a patch test on the lips. Even though we advocate doing a patch test on all of the areas, we live in a fast society and clients want procedures on the spot. Lips are the most important area to perform a patch test in, because there are too many color changes that can take place in the lips that do not happen in the other areas. In addition, it is very hard to predict true results if the client is prone to hyper-pigmentation. Use a patch test to choose your color, and see the lip section for tips on colors for ethnic skin types. 4.A good way to know if someone is prone to hyper-pigmentation is to look at their skin without any makeup on and see if the skin looks blotchy or if it has dark spots on it. For this reason, I highly recommend to stay away from using black on these skin types. The reason for this is that these skin types generally have very strong blue undertones, which tend to ashen any color. Black will tend to fade to a bluish gray and may give off that tattooed appearance. Think "warmer" colors in order to counteract the blue undertones for those particular skin types. Here are some tips for selecting color using Fitzpatrick skin types: For Asian, Black, and Hispanic with skin types 4, 5, & 6 use the following colors as your guide: For Brunettes of Dark, Medium, and Light Brown hair with skin types 1,2, or 3: For Blondes, Gray, or White hair with skin types 1, 2, or 3: For Strawberry Blondes, Redheads or Auburn hair color with skin types 1, 2, or 3: Remember that red counteracts green and vise versa. Therefore a client with an olive complexion will absorb a red color better because the green will absorb the red in the color. Use warmer colors on olive complexioned skin tones and ashier colors on reddish skin tones. Eyebrows
One thing to keep in mind is that one out of three women color their hair. Many women do not keep the same hair color for their entire life. In fact, some women change their hair color frequently. So how do you know what color to choose in cases like this? The best thing to do is to go by the color of the hairs in the eyebrow area. I generally like to choose a color that is a couple of shades lighter than those hairs. It makes for a natural undetectable look. If your client has no hair in the brow area, choose a color that she likes and looks natural with her skin type.
In order to simulate this effect, pass over the front of the brow the least amount of times, the tail – slightly more times, and the arch the most times. One of the very important things to keep in mind is to keep the brow looking extremely natural looking. Do not put a definite/harsh shape in the front of the brow. This makes an eyebrow look totally artificial. *Roll over color swatches to view color sample and description.
Eyeliner:
Eyeliner colors are also divided into Cool (silver tubes), Neutral (gold tubes), and Warm (copper tubes). Some skin types require these colors to neutralize any excess warmth or coolness. Upper eyeliner is naturally cooler than lower eyeliner, so choose warmer colors for upper eyeliner to compensate for this. For example, instead of Black Orchid on both top and bottom eyeliner, use German Chocolate on top and Black Orchid on the bottom. The end result will look just like Black Orchid. You will notice that some of these colors are actually eyebrow colors! This is because these colors happen to give beautiful results as natural looking eyeliner. In addition, eyeliner colors are also divided into Special FX liner and our Blackest Black--Black Orchid. All of these colors make gorgeous eyeliner. Special Effects Eyeliner: *Roll over color swatches to view color sample and description.
Tips for Choosing Eyeliner Colors:
•You can also use two tones for eyeliner. For example, you may want to do a lash enhancement with a color that matches the eyelashes and a slightly lighter color as a halo or smudgy effect outside that. Here's an example. For a light blonde with blue eyes who wants a totally natural look, you can use Chocolate Truffle in between the lashes and a lighter color like Bordeaux or Café Vienna mixed with Lime-Aid on the outer edge of the lashes with a smudgy effect. Use your imagination and your creativity. These colors are designed for you to have fun. Medium Toned Liner: Steel blue/gray eyes: Try Earth with a little Pearl, or a 50/50 mix of Blue Lagoon and Tempting Teal. Dark Toned Liner: Suggestions for Ethnic Skin Types: Lips
Our beautiful lip colors are all natural shades of pink, designed to match existing color in a client's lip. Pigments are divided into Brown/Pinks, Orange/Pinks, Red/Pinks, and Mauve/Pinks. Any of these may be blended with another to give an even closer match to natural color. Our colors are meant for: The SofTap® lip collection is particularly unique in that you can take three models and put a spot of the same SofTap® color on each model and the undertones in their skin will immediately change the appearance of the same color. When choosing your lip color, do the smear and match test again. Choose the color that closest matches the tonal value of your client's lips. It highly suggested to do a patch test of the desired color that you wish to use right in the lip area. The reason for this is because the lips have very strong blue undertones. For someone who desires a brownish/pinkish tone, consider Havana Girl, Jamaican Rum, Cupid's Kiss, or Pastel Rose for lip extensions. Havana Girl is the brownest of the four. Mango Obsession and Peaches 'N Cream are excellent for warmer complexioned skin. SofTap® colors have excellent staying power so don' t be fooled by how much your colors have faded in the past. Lip Extensions The Imposter Collection Sweet 16
Also, for those die hards of bright colors, we have Valentine, which is a true red, and Tickle Me Pink, which is a pink/red. Have a great time and watch your business expand after using the SofTap® colors. *Roll over color swatches to view color sample and description.
Lip Tips: Ethnic Lips:
•Use Salmon if you want to make an existing brown lip look pinker. You can also apply another lip color over Salmon in the same appointment to get your desired effect •Orange-Aid is used to help make an existing brown lip look pinker •Generally speaking the final color appears after 1 week. However, we have found more color to appear after 2-3 weeks. Some say you should wait 6-8 weeks. If you feel this necessary to wait this long then do so. We usually do a 1-2 week wait in order to see any color changes before doing the procedure. For touchups, however, we usually do a minimum 2-3 week wait.
•On the African American client's lips extreme caution must be used in selecting a color. A medium brown lip liner may appear black. The color red cannot be achieved on their lips. The only shades that may be achieved are various shades of browns. Therefore always choose 3-5 shades lighter for their lips. You can only achieve other lip colors on African American women if they are much lighter complexioned. The darker the skin, the darker their color will end up. Sometimes we can block out the darker tone on African American lips by applying Salmon first and then another pinkish tone over it like Tickle Me Pink or Blushed Petals. Use a patch test to see if this is an option for your client! •African American brown lip line - Let's say that your African American client desires a lip line. She desires a darker, browner line than the existing color on her lip. This can easily be achieved by matching the same color of the existing lip. Always choose a color from the warm Palette. This color may end up being a warm brow color such as Cocoa. We have used this and the results were beautiful. Caution must be used to not over implant the pigment because the existing melanin in the skin can cause it to appear too dark. Other blends that are beautiful are a base of Havana Girl mixed with the dot of German Chocolate, Peaches N' Cream with a little Bordeaux, Secret Passion with a little Milk Chocolate, or Tickle Me Pink with a little Caramel. •African American Pink Brown lip line- If the client's skin is medium to dark toned, then it is important to try and block out some of the darkness by using Orange-Aid or Salmon. Both will help to block out the darkness in the lip. Salmon will block out about 30-50% more than Orange-Aid. So, let's talk about which one to use when. Use Orange-Aid if you to make an existing brown lip look pinkish brown. The Orange-Aid will help to block out some of the existing brown in the lip. The existing brown will be a smaller factor in the final result of the pigment. Therefore the final result will still end up with some brown in it. If for example you use a pink color such as Tickle Me Pink over the Orange-Aid, the final result will be a pink/brown. The use of the Orange-Aid will help prevent it from getting too dark. Camouflage Colors
Beautiful camouflage work is the result of subtlety and soft color that is applied in a spray effect, not in a solid mass. Our flesh tones are designed to match someone's skin tone without having to blend anything. There may be exceptions, because there are many skin tones out there. Anyone who is serious about camouflage work needs to have all of these colors in their palette, because using the right color is critical for a successful treatment. To work on scars, start by implanting color inside the perimeter of the scar and then work your way in toward the center. Most trainers teach the opposite, but I find that the skin turns pink easily from irritation and when working with skin tones it is very difficult to see where your borders are. You really do not want to implant color on or outside the border of the scar. *Roll over color swatches to view color sample and description.
Areola Re-Pigmentation:
Camouflage colors are also used when custom blending for areola re-pigmentation. Use this table as your guide for blending. Start with a brown base if the nipple appears browner or a pink base if it appears pinker.
Correction Aids
These are primer pigments used to correct old permanent makeup. *Roll over color swatches to view color sample and description.
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